Prague
The history-packed capital city of the Czech Republic
Prague’s Charles Bridge at night | Mistervlad / Shutterstock
From the Přemyslid princes to the post-Velvet renaissance, the spires and bridges of Prague tell more than just stories. But you’ll do well to start yours at Prague Castle, one of the world’s largest medieval castles. Covering 110 acres and utterly dominating Prague’s skyline, especially by the river, you can easily spend an entire day exploring the halls, palaces and entire cathedrals dotted throughout the complex.
A guided tour is almost always the best way to get the full picture, and make sure you book one that includes the Golden Lane, with its storybook storefronts from the 16th century..
After a morning, afternoon or day spent at the Hrad, descend through the cobbled Nerudova street and cross the Gothic Charles Bridge – always full of tourists, but always offering a great view of the Vltava River and Prague’s diverse mix of architectural styles. A top tip is to start as early as you can, with the best photos to be had before the tour buses arrive, or to hop on an evening river cruise for some sublime views.
Don’t miss the Old Town Square, a natural magnet once you start exploring, and a top people-watching spot. However, you’ll be there for the famous Astronomical Clock, performing a medieval-inspired show once an hour to the tourist crowds.
Another must-see is the Lucerna Palace, a modernist shopping centre that still has a fascinating but dangerous-looking paternoster lift from the 1920s that whisks riders to a beautiful rooftop garden and bar. Ride at your own peril.
Although most tourists stick to Prague’s better-known places, it’s one of those cities where it really pays to get off the beaten track. Make the effort to head to the Žižkov neighbourhood, where the once grey, gritty buildings have been transformed into an outdoor art gallery, with street murals and pop up exhibitions.
The futuristic Žižkov Television Tower hasn’t escaped the transformation, with crawling baby sculptures from Czech artist David Černý clinging to its space-rocket-esque exterior.
Once the sun begins to dip, it's easy to stick to ordering duck confit in candlelit cellars, or opting for modern Czech tasting menus at places like La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise and Field (both Michelin-starred).
However, you’re just as likely to fall in love over goulash in a smoky pub with vaulted ceilings and a Pilsner (probably the best beer in Europe) on tap, or something fried from a street food vendor at Manifesto Market Anděl. Shop around and ask locals for up-to-speed recommendations. Prague is that kind of place.
Nightcaps are to be had at Hemingways (endless cocktail list), or for a more performative experience, at JazzDock, a floating bar on the Vltava with nightly shows.
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