Naples
This loud, busy and utterly authentic Italian city is packed with history, charm and pizza
Naples’ messy, chaotic but immensely rewarding historic centre | Olga Gavrilova / Shutterstock
Chaotic, loud but bursting with authentic Campanian life, Naples is one of Europe’s most misunderstood cities. Given something of a bad reputation thanks to its often grimy streets and widely-covered crime rate (Look up the TV show Gomorrah, for example), behind the media narrative there’s an incredibly historic and beautiful city hiding in plain sight.
Such is the sheer amount of globally important places in Naples, the entire historic centre of Naples is a UNESCO world heritage site, home to ancient Greco-Roman markets buried under baroque cathedrals, sprawling cathedrals filled with miraculous religious relics and an endless supply of ancient, medieval and early modern churches, cloisters, homes, shops and more. The Spaccanapoli, the street that cuts directly through the historic centre, is your starting point.
Staying on the history theme, Naples is also close to two critically-important Roman sites: the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii. Both Roman settlements were buried under the ash of Mount Vesuvius when it erupted in 79AD., preserving them almost perfectly until they were rediscovered in the late 1800s.
Tours of both ancient cities are just a coach or drive away, but if you want to stay central, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale houses most of the precious artefacts rescued during the excavations at both sites.
Don’t forget Naples’ Renaissance pedigree either. The Museo di Capodimonte showcases works by Caravaggio, Titian, and Botticelli in a seriously regal hilltop palace with excellent views over the city.
We’ll not dance around it any longer – Naples is the birthplace of pizza. Queue for sometimes hours outside L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele and Sorbillo, two of the city’s most famous pizzerias. Or, get in amongst it and ask the locals where they go for some off the beaten path suggestions. Don’t order anything other than a Margherita, (simple is always better) and for heaven’s sake, don’t ask for pepperoni or pineapple.
If the throbbing pulse of Naples gets overwhelming, then head to the port and hop on a ferry or hydrofoil to Ischia or Procida. Procida in particular is the quieter, less pretentious version of Amalfi, with colourful buildings and gorgeous beaches to match. Ischia is equally stunning, with pretty villages clinging onto the island’s cliffs.
Naples is raw, soulful and ready to embrace anyone who visits. Just keep yourself to yourself, carry your valuables in something that zips up, and focus on the city’s incredible history and people rather than what you may read in a newspaper or online.
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