The Island of Procidia has all the hallmarks of the Amalfi Coast without the mass tourism

Colourful houses on a bay — The colourful Marina Coricella, bringing shades of Positano | **Boris Stroujko / Shutterstock**

Citrus yellow, coral pink and sun-bleached blues line the hilly coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea. No, we’re not in Positano, we’re on Procida, Italy's tiniest inhabited island and a place that feels like the Amalfi coast did half a decade ago before the coachloads of tourists and seriously overpriced restaurants began popping up. Procida is authentic, unhurried and practically crowd-free.

While the Amalfi Coast deals with some fairly serious overtourism, including measures to limit cruise ship visitors, Procida carries on hiding in plain sight, happy to stay out of the limelight and the tourism brochures. And life goes at a much slower pace too.

So let’s take a dive into placid Procida and discover how to get in on this secret offshore haven before everyone else books a ferry ticket.

A Growing Profile

Boats and colourful buildings — Although tourism is growing, fishing is still important on Procida | **Boris Stroujko / Shutterstock**

Back in 2022, the Italian Ministry of Culture started the ‘recognition for Procido’ ball rolling by naming the island Italian Capital of Culture. Naturally, residents feared that there would be a sudden flood of tourists, but it seems instead that this growth is more of a slow burner. Turns out that your Amalfi Coast stalwarts still hold a lot of sway when it comes to tourist bookings, but that won’t stay the same for long.

Currently there are only about 1,200 hotel beds on the island, but there is a slow and steady rise in AirBnBs and guesthouses popping up. The island is still reliant on ferries from the mainland bringing both supplies and visitors, mainly residents of Naples looking to escape the city, so Procida is still working on the general tourism infrastructure that has helped destinations like Capri, Sorrento and Positano attract serious numbers.

But the evidence of the impact of the cultural title is plain to see. Yes, there are more people, but it’s the lick of fresh paint on the colourful buildings, the repaired cobblestones, concerts in abandoned chapels, new shops and new electric buses that really signal a shift to a growth in tourism.

Forty Minutes to Paradise

One of Procido’s big advantages and another reason why it could begin to rival the Amalfi Coast’s bigger players is the fact it’s only about eight nautical miles from Naples. This means you can go from Naples Airport to Procida in a few hours, thanks to both the car ferry (60 minutes) and the faster hydrofoil (40 minutes). The car ferry costs about €20 and it’s a pretty picturesque trip, passing Naples' rugged western coastline.

If you’re thinking of combining several stunning spots around the Gulf of Naples, then Procida is a 20 minute ferry hop from Ischia too.

Colour to Rival Positano

Colourful buildings in Procida, Italy — The colourful buildings of Marina Corricella helped sailors to spot home from a distance | **Balate.Dorin / Shutterstock**

There’s no denying that Postiano’s crowded hillsides, awash with bright colours, is a sight to behold. But Procida has its own colourful poster child, the Marina Corricella, which makes for equally impressive Instagram snaps. Built in an amphitheatre shape in the 17th century, the houses were painted in vibrant colours so local sailors could recognise home from the sea – and spot where to sail in dull conditions.

The waterfront is probably the busiest spot on the island, especially in the early evening when strollers look for somewhere to grab a plate of seafood pasta and sip. But we’re not talking busy like Amalfi or Sorrento in the high summer. Think gentle chatter and the clinking of glasses. Check out La Locanda del Postino, a restaurant which featured in Massimo Troisi’s novel and film Il Postino (you really need to watch it before your trip) – their espresso rivals anything on the mainland.

La Lampara, higher up from the promenade in the sea of winding streets, serves up spaghetti and sauteed clams to die for. However, don’t expect pulsating nightlife afterwards – everyone is too busy night fishing or getting their nets ready for tomorrow.

Unmissable Heritage

Old buildings sit on top of a rocky outcrop — Terra Murata, the old citadel of Procida | **IgorZh / Shutterstock**

One of the best spots to enjoy incredible Procida views – and see some of Procida’s rich history – is the Terra Murata. The climb is steep but short and best done at sunrise or sunset when Procida is at its best, and you can see the Marina Corricella in all its glory, Ischia, Capri and even Nisida on a clear day.

At the top, you’ll find an entire citadel, including the Abbey of Saint Michela the Archangel and the imposing Palazzo d’Avalos, a former renaissance palace that was converted into a prison during the Bourbon period. The Abbey is particularly ornate, with Baroque canvases, a gilded sacristy and a library with tomes dating from 1026.

The Palazzo d’Avalos has started hosting guided tours showcasing the story of the palace’s decline and conversion to a penal facility, plus there’s a decent collection of artworks and items including clothing and a hand carriage from 19th century. The palace has also hosted cinema screenings and events, so keep an eye out for goings on up on the hill on the dates you’re visiting.

The cute La Casa di Graziella museum is also located between the abbey and palace-prison. This traditional home has been left exactly as it would have looked in the middle of the 1800s and tells the story of a young girl from Procida who features in a famous Alphonse de Lamartine novel written in the same era. Hop on a guided tour and learn more about 19th century life on the island.

Beaches and Adventures

The sea stacks at Ciraccio Beach | **Giovanni Rinaldi / Shutterstock**

Procida’s coastline is a mosaic of coves and cuts rather than the long sandy lidos you’ll be used to in the rest of Italy. This does mean that you’ll usually find that beaches are a little more secluded and crowd-free even on the hottest days.

The island’s most famous and therefore most popular beach is the Pozzo Vecchio, also known as Il Postino beach (you really should watch that movie). Don’t expect white sands however, as the island’s volcanic rock makes many of the island’s beaches a dark grey.

A family-friendly beach is Chiaiolella, with shallow waters perfect for splashing and a boardwalk lined with cafes when someone gets hungry / thirsty / needs the bathroom.

If you want to escape everyone completely, then try Ciraccio, hidden between two sea stacks (photo above), or the Spiaggia di Chiaia. The latter requires a descent (and climb back up) hundreds of stone steps, but it’s completely worth it as long as you’re happy for a fairly intense workout.

Procida is also linked to another much smaller island, Vivara, by a slender pedestrian bridge that also offers incredible views. Vivara is a state nature reserve and access is strictly limited to two guided groups a day on the weekend. Pre-book online and hear about the islands endemic orchids and the Hellenistic pottery shards found here. The three hour loop ends in another outstanding view of Procida.

How to Do a Procida Day Trip

If you’re staying in Naples or Sorrento it’s totally possible to hop over to Procida on the ferry or hydrofoil and return on the same day – but having a solid will allow you to see more.

Catch the 08:30 hydrofoil from the port of Naples and head straight to Bar Roma to caffeinate. Jump straight on the C1 electric bus up to Terra Murata to browse the Palazzo d’Avalos and abbey before heading back down to Corricella for lunch on the harbour.

Finish your afternoon catching rays on the beach or browsing the handful of stores along the promenade before heading back to the hydrofoil back to the hustle and bustle of Naples and an evening nightcap.

Being a Sustainable Visitor

A woman looking over colourful houses by a bay — Procida must strive hard to remain sustainable – so help where you can | **Zigres / Shutterstock**

Where Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento all groan under the tourism strain, Procida simply cannot keep up with rising demand. Fresh water is piped to the island from the mainland, so keep your showers brief and consider bringing water with you if you’re day-tripping. The same goes for your bedsheets if you’re staying at a hotel or guesthouse – the less laundry that has to be done, the better.

Help to keep both Procida and Vivara pristine by taking your trash with you and recycling and remember that this is a working port town first, rather than a holiday resort, so cut the wait staff some slack and do as the locals do.

Final Tips and Advice

Colourful buildings by the sea light up at night — Staying overnight is worth it for this view alone | Mikolaj Niemczewski / Shutterstock

Procida is walkable but quite hilly, so if you’re feeling the heat or can’t hack the inclines, the electric micro bus is your best bet for beach-hopping or getting up to the Terra Murata. Tickets cost €1.50 on board. If you’re road-tripping around Italy, then remember that cars are banned on the island between Easter and October.

The beaches are quite rocky, so pack a pair of aqua shoes for swimming and sunbathing, as well as the usual hats, sun protection and swim gear. Remember Leave a bit of space in your day bag for a bottle of the local limoncello – it’s particularly sharp and the ideal drinkable souvenir or gift.

And finally, don’t visit Procida expecting the same level of energy as Naples, Sorrento or Ischia. Procida isn’t a place where your designer wardrobe is appreciated and there aren’t swarms of chino-wearing visitors looking for champagne bars. Bring a good book, plan a slow hike or two and just breathe in this lovely little slice of Italy without any major expectations.