The Lesser-Known Spanish City with a Secret Underground Neighbourhood
The small city of Guadix has an entire subterranean community under its surface
The underground cave homes of Guadix, Spain | Jose Arcos Aguilar / Shutterstock
Ask anyone about historic places to visit in Andalusia and they’ll immediately point you to the Moorish grandeur of Granada or the spires of Cordoba and Seville. It will only generally be a local who knows better to point you to the compact city of Guadix, tucked away in the semi-arid hills under an hour from Granada by car.
Alongside a great mix of Moorish, medieval and early modern buildings, Guadix hides an ancient but surprisingly modern way of living that’s designed specifically for surviving the extremes in what is one of the hottest and driest parts of Spain. Welcome to the Barrio de Cuevas, or the ‘neighbourhood of caves’.
A Landscape Moulded for Subterranean Living
The soft rock and marl mean this is the ideal place to dig cave homes | Steve Heap / Shutterstock
Guadix sits in the Guadix-Baza basin, an ancient inland lake that is now completely dry. Over half a million years of wind and weather have eroded the basin to create a maze of badlands, including gullies and hoodoos made up of tuff and marl. These materials are easy enough to shape and cut with even basic tools, making for perfect hillside burrows.
But why go underground? Well, when you step out of your air-conditioned car or coach, you’ll realise the benefits of living in naturally-insulated caves. Even when it’s touching 40°C outside in the summer, or under 10°C in winter, the temperature inside the caves remains at a pleasant 18°C.
That was the exact thinking of the troglodytes who first carved out these underground homes long before their first mention by the Moors in the 11th century. Since then, the caves have evolved substantially, with caves, churches and grottoes, as well as complex, multi-room dwellings added from the 16th century onwards.
Exploring Barrio de las Cuevas Today
Cave homes are often built into the side of the hills of Guadix | Adwo / Shutterstock
Today, the Guadix and the Barrio de las Cuevas are wrapped inside the Granada Global Geopark UNESCO World Heritage site.
The best place to start exploring the caves in Guadix is at the Centro de Interpretación de las Cuevas. Here, a small museum-style exhibit has been set up that explains how the carving, whitewashing, ventilation and other practicalities took place thousands of years ago.
From here, you can also head up to the Mirador Padre Poveda which offers a bird’s-eye view of the hillside, including the entrance and chimney stacks outside the cave homes.
From the centre of Guadix, you can also hop on the €5 mini train that links the cathedral square with the Barrio de las Cuevas and the cave-church of Nuestro Señora de Gracia, saving you the sweat if the weather is warm.
Meeting the Modern Troglodytes
Some cave homes are large and include modern amenities | tolobalaguer.com / Shutterstock
You may think the word troglodyte could be offensive, but the Barrio de las Cuevas residents are certainly smart when it comes to staying cool. Plus, their cave homes are far from rudimentary. Most are full-furnished, fully plumbed and even have fibre broadband connectivity!
That being said, the natural economic benefits of cave life are fully embraced too. Pellet stoves, including chimneys carved through the rock, take away any winter chills, and of course with year-round consistent temperatures, there’s absolutely no need for air conditioning. The rooms closest to the cool cave walls make for great wine cellars too!
The other best way to learn more about life in the Barrio de las Cuevas is to join a walking tour with Visita Guadix, coming in at a reasonable price of €12 including cathedral entry.
You can also stay overnight in selected caves that have been converted into guesthouses or AirBnBs. Check out Cuevas Pedro Antonio de Alarcón, a cluster of self-contained caves just outside Guadix. Each cave includes a kitchenette and there’s a shared pool overlooking the rocky landscape.
Beyond the Barrio
The impressive cathedral of Guadix | Mazur Travel / Shutterstock
Guadix isn’t just about the underground homes. The historic centre is also well worth a visit in its own right, with the Cathedral of the Incarnation the main draw.
The sandstone facade glows peach at sunrise and sunset and the interior hosts gorgeous sculptures and handiwork, including a walnut choir considered a Renaissance masterpiece. Don’t miss a chance to climb the belltower, with a lunar-esque view of the surrounding landscape from the top.
If you’re an eagle-eyed movie buff, then you may recognise the city’s train station from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusde, with its ornate exterior providing the backdrop of the scenes set in Iskenderun.
The imposing Alcazaba, a Moorish fortress above the town, is worth the hike. Some of the walls and towers still remain and the views across the city and surrounding landscape are excellent.
The Fiesta de Cascamorras
The unique and very messy festival of Cascamorras | pmajivecka / Shutterstock
If you have the chance to visit Guadixin early September, then make sure your trip coincides with the Fiesta de Cascamorras. This 500-year old festival marks the story of Cascamorras, a worker from Guadix who took a carved idol from nearby Baza and brought it to Guadix.
Every year on September 6, a local dresses as Cascamorra, and their objective is to bring the ‘idol’ from Baza to Cascamorra, keeping both the idol and themselves clean. The catch? Thousands line the route to hurl black paint (in Baza) and technicolour paint (in Guadix), either to try and prevent him from taking the idol, or as punishment for not bringing it back.
The whole event is lighthearted and there’s a festival atmosphere throughout, with almost everyone from the surrounding area joining the growing number of tourists who attend each year. There are plans to attempt to bring UNESCO protection status to the event too.
Getting to Guadix
Guadix Station may be sleepy, but it is in fact a movie star | Pepe Perez / Shutterstock
Guadixand its famous station sit right on the Granada-Almeria line, with five daily Media Distancia services reaching the city. This makes a day or overnight trip the best bet, especially if your trip involves visiting Granada or the rest of Andalusia.
It’s also easy to reach Guadix by car from the A-92, plus there’s an ALSA coach stop that also connects with Almeria.
The Best Time to Visit
Spring is probably the ‘best’ time to check in and explore Guadix, with pleasant temperatures and plenty of wildflowers popping up between the cave entrances.
July and August are the busiest months as its high season for the whole of Spain, plus the weather can get fairly unbearable with the mercury regularly getting close to 38°C, so avoid these months if you can.
September and October are a lot cooler, but certain attractions and homes that welcome visitors may close during the shoulder- and off-seasons.
Final Tips
Guadix is hot and dry for much of the year | Anibal Trejo / Shutterstock
Guadix is a wonderful day trip from Almeria or Granada and a great spot to experience simple living that stretches back thousands of years.
Just remember to be prepared for the heat and sun if you’re visiting in summer, plan your tours ahead to avoid missing out and follow the rules to preserve these amazing underground homes – and make life easier for their inhabitants.
Read Next
