The Emerald Valley in Slovenia That Remains Off the Radar
Slovenia’s Soča Valley doesn’t get the exposure it deserves, but that’s a good thing…
The emerald green waters of the Soča River | PHOTOGRAPHY IS ON / Shutterstock
Ask even the most seasoned European travellers about Slovenia and they’ll mention Lake Bled, or the karst caves of Postojna if they really know their stuff. But barely anyone will mention the Soča Valley, a slender 80km stretch of emerald river that cuts through the limestone peaks of the Julian Alps and emptying into the Adriatic Sea over the Italian border.
However, the electric-green river is well known by most Slovenes, with many heading into the hills for paddling, kayaking or simply enjoying some sublime views.
The relative anonymity of this river valley compared to other major beauty spots nearby, including the Dolomites and the Istrian Peninsula, means the Soča feels genuine and not at all geared up to tourism. Expect mountain chalets, sleepy towns and a genuine slice of Slovenian life, with an incredible backdrop of course.
So here’s a quick overview of what to see, what to do and where to stay if you like the sound of an unspoiled river valley tucked away in the Slovenian mountains.
The Three ‘Hubs’ of the Soča Valley
The town of Tolim acts as a gateway to the Soča Valley | Taljat David / Shutterstock
The easiest way of exploring the valley and choosing where you’ll visit is to the think of the valley having three hubs along the course of the Soča River. After rising in Triglav National Park in the north of Slovenia, the river passes through three main settlements that make for the ideal setting-out points for any Soča Valley trip.
Bovec is the most northerly of the valley’s hubs and is something of an adrenaline seeker’s paradise. You’ll find climbing, hiking, kayaking, paragliding, canyoning, white water rafting, skiing galore in winter and even zip lining between the karst outcrops right on your doorstep.
Kobarid is the ‘central’ hub and is known for its hearty meals and rich history including a museum dedicated to the battles fought in the valley during World War I, and a Napoleon’s Bridge, a bridge used by Napoleon’s troops on the march to Predel Pass.
Tolmin is the third hub and something of a gateway, with the best road and rail links to the rest of Slovenia and Italy.
You can continue further along the river south to Nova Gorica / Gorzia (Italy), a much larger city with more hotel choices and again better rail and road connections, but the natural landscape, while still beautiful, doesn’t quite manage the colours and remoteness of the higher reaches of the Soča river.
Getting There and Getting Around
Most na Soči, near Tolmin, is connected directly with Ljubljana by train | Simon Kovacic / Shutterstock
The good news is that the Soča Valley isn’t too difficult to get to. Depending on where you choose to stay / visit, it takes around two hours by car from Ljubliana, Slovenia’s capital city, which has the best-connected airport in the country.
Just follow the A2 motorway to Nova Gorica then head towards Tolmin, then you’re onto the local roads that follow the river. You can also cross the Vršič Pass, which is very scenic, but winter snow can block the roads, so stick to the A2 if the weather is inclement.
You can hop on a train from Ljubliana to Most na Soči before taking one of the regional buses that run the valley spine. Train and bus prices are refreshingly cheap (around €11.10 from Ljubliana and €3.70 for a single bus ticket) but will take significantly longer depending on your end destination.
The other airport option is to fly to Trieste in Italy then drive or hop on a FlixBus to Nova Gorica at the southern end of the river, then join up with local buses.
Getting around once you reach the valley is a breeze. A car will allow you more exploration opportunities and quicker journeys to your kayaking or hiking spots, but another great option is to grab a Julian Alps Card. Costing 25 € for adults and 15 € for kids over seven, this card allows for free entry to multiple Soča Valley attractions as well as free rides on the hop-on-hop-off bus that traverses the valley.
The Best Places to Stay in the Soča Valley
Like the rest of Europe, July and August are always much busier in the Soča Valley so make sure your room / chalet / campsite / glampsite is booked as far in advance as possible. Check out Nebesa Chalets near Kobarid for some truly stunning views of the limestone ridge of Krn.
In Bovec, Dobra Vila houses 11 rooms with mountain-view balconies and quirky like record players and a home-made breakfast featuring local plum marmalade.
However, our top pick is a stay at Glamping Gozdna Jasa near Tolmin. This glamping spot offers high-roofed larch and canvas luxury tens with firepits outside and mod-cons like Wi-Fi and even hot tub. Say hi to the friendly litle goats who roam the site freely while you rustle up breakfast.
Hitting the Water
Kayaking is one of the most popular things to do in the Soča Valley | Gaspar Janos / Shutterstock
Without a doubt the best thing to do in Soča Valley is to get wet. The river is refreshing, remarkably clean and offers plenty of spots to bathe, swim, canyon, raft or kayak.
If you know your way around a raft, then the 11m per km gradient resulting in continuous Class II-IV white water should whet your appetite. Soča Rafting and Bovec Rafting Team offer multiple daily departures, with a three hour run, gear hire and transport to and from the centre for around 65 € per person
If you want to head out in a kayak, you’ll need a river permit (from 3 € per day if you have your own vessel and kit) but the best option is to kayak with a local guide. Even if you feel confident on the water, a local expert will highlight tricky spots and enhance your experience by suggesting challenging routes or quiter spots away from the crowds.
Canyoning is the other must-try activity. Take a look at Soca Rafting’s canyoning packages that allow you to jump, slide and rappel natural slides and crystal clear pools in the safe hands of someone who knows the tributaries, rocks and waterfalls like the back of their hand.
Fun on Dry Land
The Soča Trail crosses several bridges that cross the river | Tom Ha / Shutterstock
If diving into a chilly Alpine river isn’t your thing, then you can always stay dry on a hike alongside or high above the water. The most famous route is the Soča Trail, a 25km marked route that snakes down from the springs where the river starts to Bovec. A bus links Bovec to the trail’s starting point early each morning so you can enjoy the trail in a single day, weather and ability permitting.
The Walk of Peace is also great for history buffs, following reconstructed World War I trenches along the Kolovrat Ridge. Expect superb views and shocking and intriguing insights into mountain warfare.
If this sounds far too tame, then try the Mount Krn Loop, a demanding ten-hour loop that summits the 2,244m Mount Krn, including steep trails and a drop down to the glacier-fed Lake Krn. This route is only recommended for experienced mountaineers with the right kit and is extremely weather-dependent. Winter blizzards and springs and summer flash storms cause equally threatening conditions.
Exploring Soča Valley’s Dark History
The charnel house in Kobarid | Kurka Geza Corey / Shutterstock
Between 1915 and 1917 the Soča Valley saw twelve major battles, known as the Battles of the Isonzo. Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops fought on the mountainsides and ravines of the valley, enduring harsh and dangerous conditions without the additional gun and artillery fire.
The battles are covered extensively in the excellent museum in Kobarid, with a 10 € combo ticket allowing access to both the museum and the charnel house above the town, housing the remains of 7,014 soldiers who lost their lives.
The riverbank at Ravelnik near Bovec shows examples of trenches and concrete gun emplacements and a self‑guided 1.5 km loop connects them, with interpretive boards in English, German and Slovene.
Where and What to Eat in the Soča Valley
Dairy plays a critical role in local cuisine | bepsy / Shutterstock
Kobarid is easily the leader of the pack when it comes to Soča Valley gastronomy. Hiša Franko received its third Michelin star in 2023 and is frequently cited as Slovenia’s best restaurant. Expect cosmopolitan dishes with local ingredients, including Tolmin trout, foraged sorrel and mountain goat kefir. Good luck booking a table, with a 90-day lead time and fresh booking selling out within hours or even minutes.
If you struggle to get a reservation, then go to the next best thing; the Hiša Franko’s bistro offshoot, Hiša Polonka. The bistro offers walk-ins only, but expect queues!
Dairy plays a massive role in the Soča Valley’s edible heritage. Visit Planika Dairy in Kobarid to try the raw-milk Tolminc cheese. Shepherds still age drums in wooden huts on the high pastures of Koritnica for a truly creamy, authentic taste of the hillsides.
After a busy day of rafting or canyoning, grab a cold one at the Thirsty River Brewery in Bovec. Try the hazy pale ale.
Seventy Two Hours on the Soča
VIbrant waters in the Soča River gorge | Uros Stepisnik / Shutterstock
Here’s a quick and easy three-day itinerary for the ideal short Soča Valley adventure:
Day One
Starting in Bovec, hop on the early morning bus to Trenta and join the Soča Trail at the source of the river. Cross all five suspension bridges and grab photos of the changing colours of the river, going from a frothy white to a vibrant teal to emerald green as the landscape changes. Refuel then book a twilight kayaking session to avoid the day trippers have long gone.
Day Two
A World War I bunker at Ravelnik | Jef Wodniack / Shutterstock
Drive or hop on the shuttle to the Mangart Saddle, a mountain road that acts as the starting point for a day exploring the Soča Valley’s history. Descend to the town of Kobarid, passing mountain World War I trenches at Ravelnik, before grabbing lunch at the aforementioned Hiša Polonka.
Continue your journey through history with a trip to the town’s museum, covering the Battles of the Isonzo that took place along the valley and surrounding areas. Then, finish your day with a stroll up to the Napoleon Bridge and a dip in the river if the weather is fair.
Day Three
Your final day in the Soča Valley is all about exploring the Tolmin Gorge. Spend the morning hiking and exploring before heading to Labirint for local trout sashimi.
If you have a car, take a ride out to Goriška Brda for a vineyard excursion or hike up to the ruins of Tolmin Castle high above the town for a farewell view of the valley.
Summarising Soča Valley
A bridge along the Soča River | Barat Roland / Shutterstock
Although the Soča Valley is within easy rich of Ljubliana, Trieste and Gorizia, it still remains delightfully unspoiled by the crowds that have turned Lake Bled into a tourist conveyor belt. You don’t have to wander far to find authentic, local experiences or delicious, locally-sourced bites.
You’ll find that a little extra planning is needed, but once you’ve navigated the river permits, local buses and the slightly more obvious language barrier (visitors are mostly Slovene or Italian), you’ll feel like you’ve discovered an alpine paradise that hasn’t been quite tapped into by the mainstream just yet.