Skip the Yellowstone Crowds and Visit Shoshone National Forest Instead
Yellowstone is seeing some of its busiest days on record. This nearby national forest is a great alternative.
The meadows that break up the forest often contains wildflowers | melissamn / Shutterstock
Although Yellowstone National Park has been an essential piece of Americana since 1872, a renewed interest has sprung up over the last few years thanks to the super-successful Yellowstone TV series and spin-off 1883.
But just to the east of the sprawling Yellowstone lies 2.47 million untamed acres of wilderness that doesn’t get snarled up by almost 5 million visitors a year. This charming, equally epic and arguably more wild corner of Wyoming is Shoshone National Forest, and it’s the better option to pick if you’re looking to escape the crowds and get closer to nature.
A Tale of Two Wildernesses
Picture the scene; it’s a summer morning, the sun is peeking over the mountains and the mist is beginning to clear to reveal a herd of bison picking their way through the yellowing grass in Yellowstone’s Sylvan Pass. Sounds great, right? Except for the fact you’ll probably miss it, waiting in a line of 100s of cars and RVs full of visitors with the same ideas.
But just 40 minutes East, you’ll miss the insane levels of traffic and get straight into the action. Granted, there is still plenty of demand for Shoshone. As the nation’s first national forest, it’s fairly famous both locally and nationally, but not at the same level as Yellowstone.
Same Stuff, More Space
Shoshone National Forest | BluCay Portraits / Shutterstock
Shoshone National Forest may as well be part of Yellowstone, wrapping around the Eastern and Southern flanks. The big benefit here is that you’ll experience much of the same: bighorn sheep, elk, wolves, grizzly bears and dozens of birds, fish and insects all go about their business along the North Fork Shoshone River which snakes through the forest.
Unlike Yellowstone, which has strict pathways and designated areas where tourists are funnelled past the main sights (and often empty pastures and clearing where wildlife has learned to avoid the crowds), Shoshone National Forest allows much more freedom to explore. The forest is broken into five designated wilderness areas (Absaroka‑Beartooth, Washakie, North Absaroka, Fitzpatrick, and Popo Agie) where you can find much quieter trails – and a better chance of spotting wildlife. Cars and RVs are completely banned in these areas too, so all you’ll hear is snapping twigs and the odd cry of a marmot as you hike through truly primeval wilderness.
Geography measured in millennia
Sunlight Basin Butte | Tom Olson / Shutterstock
Shoshone is one of those places where you can look back in time and see the mood swings that Wyoming has gone through. Volcanic ramparts create the tree-lined slopes that hide the plumbing that fuels Yellowstone’s famous geysers.
Over 300 Alpine tarns, a type of small lake filled with runoff and trapped water, can be seen along the (currently under repair) Beartooth Highway, which incidentally offers some of the best stop-off points for unmissable views on clear days. Discarded boulders and jagged granite alongside the Wind River Range show the crunching, grinding power of glaciers that once covered much of the forest.
The mountains are rivalled by gigantic buttes, notably the Sunlight Basin Butte and the more famous Beartooth Butte. Many of these buttes offer trails that snake up the side, so you’re never short of incredible views all the way across the entire region on clear days.
In fact, most of the forest can be accessed via a network of over 1,300 miles of marked trails and backroads that cover rivers, meadows, the 13,800 foot Gannet Peak and endless acres of forest and woodland.
Getting Ready for Shoshone
The entrance sign to Shoshone National Forest | StephanieFarrell / Shutterstock
The good news is that, unlike Yellowstone, the forest is open year-round and free to access without any prior passes or bookings required. A permit is required for collecting firewood or chopping your own Christmas tree, but it’s safe to assume most travellers won’t be doing either of those.
The town of Cody is the best entry point for Shoshone National Forest and is a short drive from the campgrounds and trails of the forest. Cody is also home to some great bars, restaurants and hotels, plus has its own small regional airport if you’re connecting by air.
If your focus is on the southern portions of the forest, then Dubois and Lander, although much smaller than Cody, are also great jumping-off points with gas stations and stores to stock up on supplies.
In terms of what to pack, this fully depends on the type of trip you’re planning. If your trip includes exploring mile after mile of the trails and tracks that cut through the forest and meadows, then it's all about hiking boots, mosquito and bear spray, lots of layers for changeable weather and survival gear. As a minimum, take more water than you need, high-energy snacks and food, a flashlight, a fully charged phone and something to start a fire with. A tent is an obvious one if you’re staying at a designated campsite too.
If you’re daytripping, then keep some extra water, food and warm clothes just in case you want to wander, or step in a puddle, or get caught in a shower.
Staying in and near Shoshone National Forest
Cody, Wyoming is a popular place to stay for both Yellowstone and Shoshone National Forest | Panas Wiwatpanachat / Shutterstock
Camping is easily the best way to get in touch with nature and experience the forest at the best times. Rise early and you’ll get to the best viewing spots in time to see bison herds enjoying a sunrise graze, or falcons, peregrines and eagles fishing in the rivers before it gets too got. At the end of the day, you won’t need to rush off to get back to Cody or to try and beat the Yellowstone traffic if you’re heading north.
You will need to book your campsite in advance in the summer months, but you may get lucky if you turn up on the day. Wapiti Campground is closest to Cody and is ideal for the trailheads in the southern portions, but Brooks Lake Campground offers better views and isn’t usually as busy as Wapiti.
If a night under the canvas isn’t your thing, then the Absaroka Mountain Lodge is highly recommended. This family-run resort is 12 miles from Yellowstone and a stone’s throw from Shoshone, ideal if you’re visiting both. Expect rustic cabins, traditional rooms but with all the mod-cons you’d expect from a hotel. Just think of it as pioneer-lite.
Wildlife in Shoshone National Forest
Bighorn sheep are a common sight in Shoshone National Forest | Tom Olson / Shutterstock
One of the main reasons for visiting the forest is to see the ample wildlife that the region is famous for. One of Yellowstone’s big sells are its thriving populations of wolves, elk, bighorn sheep, black and brown bears, moose, coyotes, bison and bald eagles, and you’ll see much of the same in Shoshone if you’re lucky, without bumping into gawping groups scaring everything off with camera shutters and needless chatter.
Animals like wolves, bison, elk and moose will generally leave you alone (unless provoked), but stay as far away as possible to prevent disturbing animals. However, the forest’s bears can be a very real and serious threat, so extra caution is required at all times.
Brown bears can appear out of nowhere, so read up on bear safety and carry bear spray. Black bears will do their best to access your food, so keep everything in airtight boxes to prevent scents escaping and use bear-proof trashcans found at the campsites and car parks to prevent these smart creatures from ruining their diets with your unfinished snacks and meals.
A great investment is a decent pair of binoculars so you can watch birds and animals from a safe distance for both you and them.
A Quick-and-Dirty Three Day Shoshone National Forest Itinerary
The Wind River Range | Zack Frank / Shutterstock
Day one: Setting Out and Getting Settled
Your Shoshone National Forest trip begins in Cody, Wyoming. Grab a sourdough pancake at The Local and tip your hat to Buffalo Bill at his original hunting lodge, Pahaska Tepee. Stock up on last-minute supplies at Rocky Mountain Sports if you plan to hit the backcountry.
Beartooth Highway is not only your first stop of the journey, but also the way to the forest itself. This winding mountain road offers some of the best views in the state. Just check if it’s open first, as it has seen extensive repairs since it was damaged during floods in 2022.
Once you arrive at Shoshone, set up camp at Beartooth Lake Campground. This offers the forest’s famous iconic view of Beartooth Lake, with Beartooth Butte rising behind it. It’s an essential snap to grab, especially at sunrise or sunset.
Once you’re over the sheer beauty of the place, head out onto the easy Lily Lake Trailhead route. This 1.5 mile is a great opportunity to stretch your legs and get to grips with Shoshone’s gorgeous landscapes and wildlife. Return to your tent or lodge and get some rest for a big adventure tomorrow!
Day Two: Hidden Gems and the Wind River Range
Get up as early as you can and head to Brooks Lake. The Brooks Lake Loop Trail will give you some absolutely incredible views and an opportunity to spot grazing herds or possibly even an eagle looking for breakfast. This lesser-known spot in the forest will be guaranteed to be free from crowds early in the morning.
As the day progresses, hike or drive on to the Wind River Range and the Green River Lakes Trailhead. This particularly spectacular trail allows access to the Green River Lakes, a set of tarns with an epic backdrop of jagged pinnacles and steep slopes. Find a spot and sit still with your binoculars – you’re almost guaranteed to see something lumbering by the water, as this is prime bear territory.
Day Three: Waterfalls and Wildlife
Popo Agie Falls | Jeff Futter / Shutterstock
Slow the pace down slightly on your final day by taking a trip down Forest Road 474 to the south fork of the Shoshone River. Spend some time scanning for wildlife with your camera or binoculars and grab those essential shots of animals in their natural habitat.
For your grand finale, drive toward Sinks Canyon State Park near Lander, a fascinating geological site where the Popo Agie River literally vanishes underground. You can round out your trip with a hike along the Popo Agie Falls Trail, a 3-mile round-trip hike leading to the spectacular Popo Agie Falls. Take a dip or try your luck if you’ve rented a fishing rod.
Rounding up your Shoshone adventure
If the thought of battling the lines and crowds at Yellowstone makes your stomach turn, then Shoshone National Forest is a great alternative. Everything feels slightly more raw and unfiltered – even the air feels clearer!
Here are a few final tips for the perfect Shoshone trip:
Phone service is spotty at best, especially in the forests and mountains, so download maps and trail information before you go – or grab a compass and a paper map!
Shoshone National Forest is bear country, so always follow proper food storage protocols, even at campgrounds
Altitude sickness can kick in at these elevations, so take it slow, hydrate, and don’t underestimate how thin the air can feel several thousand feet above sea level
Layers are your best friend – even in summer, temperatures can swing dramatically between day and night
The forest has remained wild and pristine for over a century because people have respected it, so please remember to leave no trace
