Valletta
The sun-drenched capital of Malta
Valletta’s historic centre | Karina Movsesyan / Shutterstock
Valetta, Malta’s compact and charismatic capital, or almost always overlooked in favour of better-known cities, usually on the mainland. But this is where the Mediterranean’s cultures smash together in glorious fashion, creating a tiny city that is jam-packed with history and heritage befitting somewhere five times its size.
Inside the single square kilometre that is the historic centre of Valetta, you can take a trip through time that begins with prehistoric stones, touches on the turbulence of the medieval period and the official founding of the city by the Knights of St. John, and ends in the baroque-strewn former British colony that has built a thriving tourism industry in the modern period.
Your tour of this UNESCO world heritage site begins at St. John’s Co-Cathedral, a relatively calm and plain medieval house of worship that hides an explosion of marble, gold gilding and masterpiece artworks. Stashed among the treasures in the oratory is Carabaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist, a must-see.
From there, it’s on to Republic Street where designer boutiques and busy streetside cafes keep you cool as you explore. Follow the crowds and you’ll likely land at the Is-Suq tal-Belt, Valletta’s food market. Street eats blend with fresh fish and island-grown produce. A pastizz, a cheesy ricotta pastry and a cold Kinnie, the bitter-sweet Maltese national drink, will help you blend in with the locals.
The best views in Valetta are undoubtedly from the Upper Barrakka Gardens. Endure the climb in the noon heat to see the Saluting Battery fire a ceremonial cannon to mark midday. Then, take the lift back down to the Grand Harbour and catch a dgħajsa (a traditional type of small boat) for a side-quest to the Three Cities, a part of town that tourists haven’t quite overrun just yet.
However, it’s night time when Valetta really comes to life. Dining is a peak priority for Maltese people and the hospitality extends. Try Rubino, a family-run restaurant loved by locals and famous for its slow-cooked rabbit. If you want to be impressed, try Michelin-starred Noni, serving up famous Maltese dishes with the expected twists and turns of an elite restaurant.
End the evening at Bridge Bar for live jazz at the weekends, or sample over 200 types of gin at Yard 32, tucked away down a cobbled alley.
Valletta is a hilly little city so forget heels and flip flops and think sneakers and hiking boots. It gets hot in summer and can be pretty warm in winter too, so pack lighter and stay hydrated. But with its compact size and plentiful amenities, you’re never far from a cold drink and the perfect people-watching spot in Valetta.
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